Internal Tape Sealing a Custom Picture Frame - Why and When?

Dust is a real problem in our shop and we take many measures to minimize the beast. Vacuum is done weekly or more frequently as needed, air filtering fan, and several tools and techniques during the framing process.

One of the techniques we use is to internally tape seal the "stack" (consisting of backing board, artwork, mats and the glazing...some may call this the "brick", but I find "stack" more suitable). This involves putting tape over the edge of the glazing (i.e. glass or acrylic) on all 4 sides. This sounds simple and essentially it is. The work comes in getting everything dust free to begin with.

Why do we go through this step in the framing process? Well, FrameTek published a great article on this which I will not attempt to duplicate called "Stop the Dust Pump". Essentially, the movement of the mounted art and the glass inherently creates and positive and negative vacuum which sucks in and pushes air along with any dust particles. Of course, our concern is the "sucking in". This process greatly reduces that air flow and thus the introduction of visible particles (which we don't want).

When do we use this? We are starting to use this more and more, eventually moving to all framed pieces. In the past, we have primarily done this with mats that more easily show dust particles as well as any frame that will be getting shipped (as they tend to have a good bit of movement before finally being hung). Frames which use wide spacers do not usually get this treatment as the spacers go between the glazing and the artwork making the process somewhat difficult to do this (for now at least).

We generally will not do internal tape sealing for frames which are expected to be opened in a short period of time (i.e. temporary framing where the artwork or commercial assets which will be periodically replace, or our vinyl LP frames where they are designed for insertion and replacement by the customer.

Finished Sealed Stack

To first remove any dust and particles, we primarily use a handheld blower/vacuum and an SRI Dust Removal System (DRS) along with some other techniques.

We'll start by standing the mounted artwork with mats vertically and tap it on the work table to dislodge any larger debris pieces. Then we will blow it with the handheld blower (which doubles as a portable vacuum); we use the PeroBuno Handheld vacuum/blower which is a USB-enabled blower and pretty powerful.

The DRS, while it looks like a simple tool (albeit expensive), also reduces static which is very helpful when working with acrylic and picks up debris on the surface of the artwork. The DRS is rolled over the artwork (carefully) and periodically rolled on the cleaning pad which will remove any debris that accumulated on the roller.

Our tape of choice to do this job is the PH7-70 tape. We like this tape for its acid-free and conservation characteristics, but also because it has good adhesion on glass/acrylic and applies extremely easy. This good adhesion sometimes causes us frustration if we ever have to remove it, but we have some internal techniques to minimize that occurrence. Unfortunately (for us), this tape is only available in the UK, so we periodically order a half-dozen rolls.

Tools and Materials Used

After cleaning the glazing, we will also blow the glass right before we are ready to place it over the mounted art.

There are many benefits to doing this which include:

• Ultimately, it stops the vacuum effect (dust pump); this is especially helpful in shipped frames;

• Any particles, flakes and wood which might be loose on the wood mouldings are prevented from entering the mounted art;

• Reduction in rapid temperature changes and humidity reduce the possibility of buckling of the artwork and mat boards;

• Stops contamination of outside dust, smoke, critters and other particles which may enter. Since not only can these contaminants enter from the back, but also through the front between the glazing and the moulding (referred to as the rabbet);

• Other benefits, but those are the main ones.

This technique takes and little additional time but we can tape seal the internal stack in 5 minute or so and highly efficient at it. The white tape which go on the glazing portion is usually around 1/16" to 1/8" and is not visible when the stack is placed in the frame.