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My Digest for Linen-Backing Posters: Part II - Building a Canvas Frame

  • Writer: John Leschak
    John Leschak
  • Jun 5
  • 6 min read

Updated: 7 hours ago


Small Frame for Canvas
Small Frame for Canvas

One of the first things you are going to need is a simple frame (technically referred to a "Strainer Frame" since corners are mitred and it is not adjustable), but we will just use "frame" for this post). This simple frame will be used to stretch a piece of the canvas to the bottom and using a staple gun to tack it down, then you can trim off the excess. This will be used to adhere the Masa paper onto the canvas using wheat paste and later the poster itself. Most everyone will just build them and 99% of those building them take a very simple route. Of course, not me.


Generally make the inside dimension of the frame to be 6-8" larger than the largest poster you will be using that frame for. If you are making a larger one, you may also want to think about the paper width of the Masa roll and make it slightly wider than that to save yourself some a cut or two (minor...yes). These frames don't need to be perfectly square, so perfection is not necessary as you will be cutting the cutting the canvas and poster out of the frame at the end of the process, but make it generally rectangular and by using corner braces and angle irons, you will naturally just get something more than sufficient.


Simple Way

Essentially, you need 4 pieces of wood, 2 pieces for the longer side and 2 pieces for the shorter side. Simply attach the with some angle irons making sure the bottom side (or top side that will be the bottom side...just one of the sides at least...) is flat on all 4 corners. Easiest to just build it by laying it out on a cement floor in the garage or something. Feel free to put some wood screws into each corner for some additional support, probably not worth gluing it as you can disassemble and use the wood for something else if you want.


Basic construction 2"x4" lumber from your local big box store is just fine for this, although you may find 1"x3" or something in the middle suitable for smaller frames. Expect to get anywhere from between 50 to 100 uses of it before it will be ready for a new one.


Put the angle irons on the corner, maybe use some corner braces for the top if large for additional strength, and your pretty much done. There is no secrets here, super simple. You might want to ensure you keep the top opening generally free without major obstructions as you will be laying paper and the poster into the opening.


My Over-Engineered Way


Bottom View of Corner
Bottom View of Corner

Remember while your reading this that I am also a Custom Picture Framer and general woodworker (although certainly not master level). I had some nice Basswood available to use. Basswood is nice because it is light weight and resists warping. I cut some 1 1/4" strips which I deemed would be a good width to offer the right structural stability necessary. I mitred the corners, glued and used corner braces on the top for strength. I didn't use any angle brackets on the inside as I really didn't think it was necessary for this size....over-engineering does have it limits. While I did mitred corners, it really isn't critical to the overall design and simple basic butt joint will do just fine with some wood screws.


Top View of Mitred Corner with Corner Brace
Top View of Mitred Corner with Corner Brace

After I had the basic frame built out, next was to put some tacks into the bottom approximately 3" apart. I left the head of the tacks approximately 1/4" above the wood and cut off the heads. These will be used to pull the canvas over and hold it in place. There will e a strip later with opposing holds in it that goes over this to secure each side of the canvas.


View of Decapitated Nails to Hold Canvas
View of Decapitated Nails to Hold Canvas

After you have all your tacks in place and decapitated, then be careful...they can be sharp. Anyway, next is to get your wood strips that will go over them and drill holes where each tack is placed. I used some walnut which was cut into 1" x 1/8" strips, cut them to the length of the side (shorter is fine or mitre them like I did) and laid it over the bottom and pressed, such that the tacks would make an impressed for each location. Now knowing the exact location, drilled a 1/8" hold all the way though at each impression. It is worth noting that that each strip is really intended for that side it was impressed upon and that side only, so label the frame side and the strip so you know what location it goes into. Once you have all the holds drilled for the side, place it over the tacks (with no canvas on it) and use a hammer to tap down the tacks so they are at the same height as the top of the wood strip. Finally, at approximately 6" intervals of the strip, pre-drill some holes and countersink them so the screws will be flat when in place. So the process when complete is to stretch the canvas, then put the strips in place to hold it, and secure it down with screws.


While I thought I was done when I did this, the problem was that the canvas was 1/8" off the surface when laying canvas-down on the frame. The 1/8" strips over the canvas raised it off the table, and this is not desirable. To remedy the situation, I took 4 more strips of the walnut 1" x 1/8" and put them along the bottom, but protruding out 1/8" down. This is best shown in the 4th picture above.


That is really it. To use it, you remove all the bottom securing strips, exposing the decapitated tacks, then cut canvas an inch or two larger than the frame and start laying it over the tacks...remember, they are still sharp. You don't really need to get this excessively tight, but not loose either, you can always just mist it with water if needed and let it dry and it will tighten right up. After you are done linen-backing, you just cut the poster out, then remove the securing strips and remove the remnants. It really doesn't take that long.


Stretching the Canvas

There is a technique for putting on a canvas onto a frame. You will lay the canvas over the top of it, then at the center of one of the longest sides, affix with 2 or 3 staples 2-3 inches apart -(just do 3 staples) or over one of the tack heads (I will just use "staple" from here on out - you can just staple to the bottom as well, no need to wrap up the side. Then go to the opposite side, put the canvas taught (but not super tight, just pull so no sag, no wrinkles...maybe slightly less than drum tight) and then again , affix with 2 or 3 staples 2-3 inches apart. Then go to the shorter side and do the same on both ends. Now go back to the original side and work your way toward the corners with another 2 or 3 staples on both sides. Continue this until you get to the corners. If you are using my design, then put the wood securing strips over the edge aligning the tack heads into the holes and put in the screws.


If it feels too loose, spritz it with some water and let it dry.


View of Bottom with Canvas Stretched
View of Bottom with Canvas Stretched

So, what are the benefits of my way? None...I just like to build things that look nice that might turn into some cool innovation. In theory, my canvas frame could be used indefinitely and not need to be tossed after it has been riddled with staples, but relative to the amount of effort I put into it and payback, maybe not worth it for most. But that said, it is pretty handy and I can stretch and remove the remnants pretty quickly, so will just keep on this route and will go the simple route for special size needs. At some point, I figure I will have removed the screws so many times, that the screw holes start to strip...I'll work that out when I get there.


Well, that's it for building a tray, make it as simple or over-engineered as you see fit. The next post will probably building a washing tray. This can also be simple or elaborate, of course I will go the elaborate over-engineered route...but most professional linen-backers just buy a large tray or have a special table with gutters on side to direct water runoff.




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